Men Who Ride Mountains: Incredible True Tales of Legendary Surfers
Includes a new introduction by the author.
"Riding a clean, fast-moving wave creates such profound physical and emotional satisfaction that hardly anything else surpasses this exuberant, challenging experience." Peter Dixon
In this celebration of modern surfing, Dixon follows the origins of the sport back to the turn of the century and paints dazzling portraits of both its early practitioners and the eccentric characters who came to dominate the waves of Hawaii and Malibu in the sixties, when surfing first exploded in the popular imagination.
Taking us around the world (from Australia to El Salvador) and through time (from 1900 to 1969), Dixon not only illustrates the amazing athletism of surfing - and the demanding technical expertise needed to master it - but also infuses his account with a strong sense and appreciation for the peaceful, laid back way of life that surfing inspires. In chronicling the exploits of such surfing legends as Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, Ricky Grigg, Corky Carroll, Nat Young, and Rodney Sumpter.
- Publisher : Lyons Press; 1st edition (November 1, 2001)
- Language : English
- Paperback : 192 pages
- ISBN-10 : 1585743887
- ISBN-13 : 978-1585743889
- Item Weight : 0.564 ounces
- Dimensions : 6 x 0.47 x 8.98 inches
Men Who Ride Mountains: Incredible True Tales of Legendary Surfers
Peter Dixon has been surfing for over five decades and is widely regarded as the preeminent elder statesman of the sport. He is the author of The Complete Guide to Surfing, Men, and Waves, Where the Surfers Are and Wipe Out, plus articles and short stories for such publications as Surfer Life, Surfing, Sports Illustrated, and Surf-Guide.
He has surfed on both coasts of the United States, in Mexico, El Salvador, Hawaii, Fiji, Portugal and Puerto RIco.
